Archive for the ‘d40’ tag

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4G Lens

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Nikon rolls out an AF-S prime lens F1.4G 50 mm in celebrating the company’s 75th anniversary of Nikkor Optic. You would think they came out with at least one stop faster Nikkor at its third quarter century milestone. Perhaps there are more to come later. It does feature a silent Wave Motor for faster and quite focusing; the built-in focus motor will support its entry-level Digital SLR D60/D40x/D40 that built without an in-body AF motor. At $435.95, you can get the new Nikkor when it hits the shops in December 2008.

Specification

  • Maximum aperture - F1.4
  • Minimum aperture - F16
  • 8 elements / 7 groups
  • Number of diaphragm blades 9 (rounded)
  • Minimum focus distance -0.45m
  • Maximum magnification -0.15x
  • AF motor type - Ring-type SWM
  • Filter thread - 58 mm
  • Weight 290g (10.2 oz)
  • Dimensions 73.5mm diameter x 54.2mm length

Source:
Nikon USA

Written by Shutter Baby

September 22nd, 2008 at 11:53 pm

Macro Photography - How Close Can You Get?

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Also known as Close-Up Photography, the image is close to the same size as the subject. The lens is typically optimized to focus sharply on a small area approaching the size of the film frame.

A macro lens might be optimized to provide its best performance at a magnification of 1:1. Some macro lenses, like the Canon MP-E 65 mm f/2.8, can achieve even better magnification— up to 5:1 macro, bringing the structure of small insect eyes, snowflakes, and other minuscule but detailed objects into striking focus. However, it is more common for a photographer to use a “standard” (1:1) macro lens. There are different categories of macro lenses, depending on the focal length.

White balance
If you choose right one you’ll have natural colours. Colours are a little bit darker and contrast is better. But you have to experiment. Try not to leave this option to AUTO – you are smarter then camera.

ISO & Exposure Time
Higher ISO means have faster shutter speed (shorter exposure time) you could choose. For digital cameras it is recommended to stay at ISO200 or lower if possible. For DSLR, it depends form your camera quality. From 0.0125 & shorter exposure time is recommended as well. When you have ISO 100 and exposure time on 0.0125 and camera tells you that picture will be too dark – leave exposure time as it is and try changing ISO to 200 or even 400 (DSLR). If it’s still to dark go back to ISO 100 or 200 and use flash with diffuser. Leave exposure time on 0.0125 but if your photo is too bright change it (make it shorter). You’ll have to experiment with those settings. Main point here is to keep balance between ISO (to keep it low so there will be no noise on your photo) & exposure time (to keep your object still=sharp, because you are trying to freeze that moment).

F number (DOF setting)
In macro photography, we need as much details as we can get. So F number should be starting from 11 (if possible). Bigger the number is more details we’ll have in focus. The only problem is that with higher F number we need more light. Again, you’ll have to experiment.

Samples below are taken with Nikon D40 & Nikon D60 using a kit lense of 18-55mm VR.





Source:
Wikipedia
Lloyd Tan
Onat Bancod
Ea Raymundo

16 Portrait Photography Techniques

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1. PHOTOSHOP
If you’re good with post-processing and manipulations, use it to your advantage. Get crazy with the adjustments, try some new Photoshop techniques, and maybe even a composite image.

2. TEXTURE
If texture is a big part of your subject, make it stand out and make it obvious. Match up the textures between your subject and your background. You might even try texturizing the entire photo for additional impact.

3. OVEREXPOSE
Blowing out the highlights or making a high-key image makes a nice soft portrait with kind of a light airy feeling. Another advantage of high-key photos is that the smaller details and defects are blown away, making the image look much smoother.

4. UNDEREXPOSE
A dominantly dark or low-key image will naturally draw your eyes to the lighter parts. These tend to have a grittier and harder look to them than the high-key images.

5. BACK-LIGHT
Hair lights up like crazy when it’s back-lit, so if hair is a big part of your subject make it stand out by placing your subject between you and a light source. You could also take this a little further and push the image to a silhouette.

6. POSING
Get crazy with the pose and positioning — extra points if it looks uncomfortable. Not only with the poses, but also with your own positioning — shoot from different angles to achieve different impacts.

7. CULTURE
Capture the local culture — what’s mundane to you is exotic to us. Culture is everywhere, even in your own town. Just image you’re visiting from a different country — what things would then seem more interesting to you?

8. REFLECTIONS
Make use of different surfaces to add that extra dimension — windows, mirrors, and water are all very good reflective surfaces that give a different result and texture.

9. SHADOWS
Make the shadow an important part of the image. Sometimes the shadow can even be more prominent than the actual subject casting the shadow.

10. GET CLOSE
There’s no rule against cropping out most of the subject’s face. This draws more attention to the parts that are left in the frame.

11. (UN)FOCUS
Out-of-focus subjects can be more interesting than the in-focus subjects. It kind of adds some mystery to the image because you can’t quite make out who that person is.

12. MOVEMENT
Use movement to show action, even if it blurs out the subject entirely. In cases like this, think of the person as a means of creating the subject rather than being the actual subject.

13. CAPTURE THE MOMENT
Catch somebody doing something they love, even if it’s not staged. Street photography is one of my favorite genres because it captures life as it happens — unstaged and unposed.

14. COLORS
Use vibrant and contrasting colors to draw attention to parts of your subject. This could be makeup, clothing, accessories, or whatever else you can get your hands on.

15. GET SERIOUS
Not all portraits need to have a smile, capture the serious emotions too. Some of my favorite portraits have no hint of a smile in them, and they’re highly emotional.

16. PROPS
Use the props and tools around you to make the setting more interesting. Find things to place your subject in, on, under, around, etc.

Sources:
Brian Auer
Onat Bancod
Lloyd Tan
Ea Raymundo
Fatz Bancod
Bob Perez